"Nothing fake; nothing false. A diamond in a sea of glass"
I'm finally getting to this and inevitably loved it. Its like a fearlessly dangerous and perverse take on well worn showbiz tropes that have underpinned everything from A Star Is Born to Showgirls! In a strange way this feels like it is taking up and elaborating on those singular scenes from Drive and Only God Forgives of those rooms of posed women (the strippers in their backroom in Drive and the women dressed like up like frilly dolls (by the costume designer of Thai film
Tears of the Black Tiger) in the club in Only God Forgives) and merging it with those images of grand guignol stagings of death of beautiful women in the club in Ryan Gosling's Lost River film. It feels as if the influence of Gosling's film has sloshed back onto Refn somewhat!
But film wise there seem to be a lot of other wonderful references going on here: the seedy motel room invaded by a big cat feels like an obvious homage to Paul Schrader's Cat People remake (also about the simmering dangers of female sexuality!). The Repulsion hands. And there seems like a homage to the shower sequence of Carrie in a late scene! Plus others, which I'll get to later on!
There is a beautiful use of mirrors throughout, with characters constantly reflected within frames inside the image. In some ways the seedy hotel room with its old fashioned peeling and bubbling wallpaper is the most impressive location here. It makes the beauty of Jesse stand out stronger against its relative 'normality'. Or at least normality compared to the other spaces that are much more 'designed'. The paired scene to the one showing Jesse from the legs down lying on the bed against that wallpaper is probably the first photographer one where she is posed against an entirely white background, which is stunning in the way that it provides such a stark, exposed contrast (it reminded me a bit of Under The Skin), but removes context from the body. Its just a figure at that point. An image of flesh rather than a person. I guess that is another way that Lost River reflects on Neon Demon - those 'normal' spaces against much more abstract ones. But here everyone is a tenant and nobody actually appears to live anywhere. Houses are rented out for photoshoots rather than lived in. Once we get to the claustrophobic final section of the film set in the house that Ruby is housesitting, we have every element composed, every object is placed in just the right angle to be shown off in the best light possible.
I love the abstraction of the film, mostly through the design. I love that it is the 'female corridor film' to match the 'male corridor film' of Only God Forgives. The beautifully lit and composed hallways become like catwalks for the character to move down in various modes of dress and at various speeds (top speed being during the chase sequence of course!). And that allows for the
actual catwalk scene to go entirely abstract and almost symbolic dream sequence-like in that central sequence, with the walk that Jesse does towards the almost Masonic triangles (we're going to get more secretive cults at the end!), reaching them and them reflecting her image in triplicate - the three reflections (the trinity that will eventually become embodied by the three women surrounding Jesse) looking back at her and the middle reflection kissing each of those on either side of her. Its a wonderful abstraction of what could be a standard scene of reaching the end of the catwalk and looking from side to side before turning and walking back the other way (or to the neon pyramid that represents the other end of the stage!), but it also feels to be showing Jesse's desire to be watched yet fear of the gaze as well, and what the intent behind the gaze of others represents. And its also kind of about Jesse's inherent narcissism - Jesse is not exactly a naive figure full of inherent decency being corrupted by the glamorous world of modelling. She's more complicated than that, with her little flickers of self-satisfied smile at how she is acing her lingerie audition. A character like Jesse needs to have that self-knowledge of their own beauty and drive within them to have made that initial leap in the first place, but in a way she has kept the facade of down-home small town girl compared to the other more experienced (and brittle, with a desperate look in their eyes, as if they know their Logan's Run clock is blinking red ever faster!) models, at least for the moment.
In a sense that facade of innocence waiting to be corrupted is the look that attracts the attention, whether from the photographer, the designer or the owner of the seedy motel. Or the make up artist! They all seem to like the untouched, virginal nature of that posture (disturbingly moving ever younger in their search. How can actual 20 year olds, showing their age, compete with an apparent flood of teenage, and pre-teen, runaways?), but perhaps more for the idea of seeing that moment of the 'corruption' as it changes from innocence to experience. Once that moment happens at the end and Jesse voices her self confidence, and fully embraces her narcissistic status as the embodiment of absolute beauty that everyone is yearning for (as well as beginning to take charge of doing her own make up!), she is already 'past her peak' and is too knowing. She has almost already curdled and 'gone off', being too full of herself and the eternal dominance of her beauty over all the wannabes. Jesse has started gaining agency and wilfulness for herself, but that kind of marks the end of her period of dominance and is the ultimate transgressive act in a world where everyone appears meant to only be a posable mannequin for the desires of others, or the raw meat in the production process of an image (In that sense I also find a Cronenberg sense to the film especially in the ending which literalises a concept in horrific terms, but also to Cronenberg's recent novel Consumed). The one consolation from the ending is perhaps that the three women were slightly too late to fully savour an actual naïf. But maybe they did Jesse a favour and validated her beauty by taking her out at her height (Mishima-esque) rather than Jesse having to go through the inevitable downward slide as fashions (and tastes!) change!
I guess following on from that, we have to get to the most notorious aspect of the film:
After Jesse rejects her advances, Ruby's necrophilia sex scene at the funeral parlour that she works at (makeup artist to 'The Dead & The Beautiful' - the earth and the stars) followed by the trio's murder and cannibalisation of Jesse. I love the way that it is obviously set up right from the very start of the film with the 'Red Rum' lipstick and the girly bathroom chat ("Are you sex or food?" "She's dessert, because she's so sweet") that anticipates the ending, even if it is still rather surprising for just how literal it all goes! The ending does not feel as if it is meant to come as a shock, but more an inevitability that pushes all of those standard 'bitchy model' conflicts into allegorical, highly stylised areas, quite reminiscent of Beyond The Valley of the Dolls.
There is also something perversely tragic about Ruby's making up of the latest cadaver with Jesse's hairstyle and makeup. She has created Jesse's look but wants the actual person under that. But only ends up making love by proxy to the surface instead. In some ways it is only superficially a necrophiliac scene, but instead more about a frustrated abstraction on Ruby's part. (Not really like Nekromantik!) She is less interested in fooling around with that particular corpse (I was amused by wondering whether for a couple of weeks there every person who died was going to have ended up with Jesse's hairstyle! Even the men!) than by it being a body double for another, soon to be corpse.
And then there is Ruby's Countess Bathory moment in the tub-post murder (which also suggests impermanence and that even the beauty of this one, supposedly special, girl will not last. There will need to be others if the ever aging models want to keep their beauty at their peak. Though it might be just a one off for Ruby), followed by the amazing scene of Ruby back watering the flowerbeds in her housesitter role, with the hose almost being used as a phallic symbol as she pees away the traces of blood from the pool. Which gets fantastically literalised immediately afterwards with that nocturnal, almost occult and ritualistic, scene of nude bathing in the moon and starlight before letting loose a flood from inside herself!
It is also great to see Jena Malone in a role here that feels as if it builds on her character in Sucker Punch in an interesting way, even if I mostly feel that way because of a couple of scenes of conversations taking place through mirrors in dressing rooms!
There is a kind of cosmic-occult thing going on throughout the film. Jesse seems to be the stars wanting to be seen by the moon. Wanting to be seen but also to remain out of people's grasp. Perhaps that is why she is often seen in clouds of dust and glittering dresses, or with sparkling jewels around her eyes. Fragile and ephemeral, like 'natural' beauty itself (there could be connections made to Knight of Cups here, especially in moments when Jesse poses and does a walk across a cityscape for her boyfriend. Or the images of the cracked desert at the beginning of the end credits). But she is still a human being and subject to other people's desires and almost compulsive need to reach out and touch her if they can.
The most interesting thing about the film to me is that all of the photographers and designers seem to be struck by Jesse's 'natural beauty', yet they all waste no time in augmenting her. For that photographer scene she has been made up with those hilarious looking gold elements all over her face, which look silly and unnatural out of context, but make a bit more sense once Jesse is being stroked with gold makeup (compared to her previous 'blooding' in the opening photoshoot scene by the slightly less abstract sort-of boyfriend. Who after initially being presented in an unsettling manner in that opening photoshoot scene turns into a respectful, almost parodically perfect boyfriend, but beautifully and heartbreakingly entirely drops out of the film once he starts being the sensible one and voicing some concerns! But there is an interesting ambivalence there to whether it was the boyfriend or the Keanu Reeves character who tried to get into Jesse's motel room in the middle of the night, and it is laid out in an earlier scene that they both knew about the even more vulnerable girl in the room next door. Maybe it is all a projection on Jesse's part as outside of the sinister camera wielding in the opening scene we never see the boyfriend being anything other than respectful towards her, but perhaps she ends up equating the two men together anyway? They both drop out of the film from that point anyway, to be fully replaced by a synthetic world and unfortunately fake girlfriends who also have no conception of boundaries!), but they are always obscuring and 'ruining' the natural for stunning abstraction. But were they ever in pursuit of that anyway, and more just excited by a fresh, blank canvas to doodle on?
Perhaps a certain amount of beauty is the base but everything is augmented: through surgery, clothes, makeup, even the environments. Everything is composed. In some ways it is the best film about the philosophies underpinning the modern fashion world -
Pret-a-Porter used nakedness (NSFW) as a kind of too easy satirical 'Emperor's new clothes' jibe to close out its film, but here the contrast between the bodies and the clothes covering them is all important and more importantly respected as being a powerful aspect of the fashion world (its arguably what makes the fashion world entirely an abstraction in itself, all about clothes that no 'real person' could ever wear! Or at least pull off a look to the level that a professional model does! When it is easier to sculpt the body to fit the line of the clothes better rather than the opposite, we are already in a twisted world!). And in Robert Altman terms Neon Demon is closer to 3 Women (especially in its swimming pool climax!), especially in the idea that women attempt to merge together, more or less successfully! I absolutely love the final scene of the long-legged, blonde Aryan models (one with Heidi pigtails!) confronting each other in that bathroom with the blue swastikas all over it! I guess one did not have the stomach for fame after all! It is a film that is all about character placement, movement through environment and what you are wearing, if anything at all, whilst doing it. All of which illustrates fluctuations in status between people. Its the ultimate fashion show!
But beyond anything else the film that came to mind quite strongly, especially when Cliff Martinez's score seems to have some Brian Eno-style qualities to it in the final section, was Derek Jarman's Sebastiane. Neon Demon is sort of about the same ideas in the end: an impossible beautiful figure, often seen from a detached perspective as they bathe in liquid, is lusted after and when they reject advances become used as a sacrificial figure embodying thwarted desires. The rejected person ends up becoming strongly bonded to them, if only because they were the ones to have destroyed that beauty.
But yes, both this and Only God Forgives are not surprisingly going to be much more niche propositions compared to Drive's almost accidental mainstream success, even if they all feel wonderfully part of Refn's world.