criterionforum.org

Need more info. Is the speaker active or passive? How many drivers in the unit? Can you localize the source as one specific driver?

Passive speakers (i.e. no built-in amplifier) are pretty simple devices. A "fuzzy, static-y" noise almost always indicates damage to the driver - a blown voice coil, a detached dust cap or simple damage to the cone. Generally that means replacing the driver, although depending on the cause there are some DIY remedies that might ameliorate the condition but won't eliminate it. You'll have to source the driver if you decide to replace it.

If it's a powered speaker, it gets more complicated. The amps in these things, like computer speakers, are cheap plate amps. The problem could be as simple as dirt/dust in the controls, a cold solder joint on the PCB (these are a bitch to find and not likely given the way modern printed circuit boards are assembled) or a defective component. If that's the case, heat up your solder station and get busy.

You'll note that the troubleshooting and remedies are all more trouble than checking the warranty and sending it back for replacement.

This is my system: http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores ... 1666465637" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I notice the static during music (it first popped up while playing Skyrim, and was present during the opening of French Cancan) and also when people with deeper voices talk (Jean Gabin in French Cancan, but not any of the other actresses.) It's definitely more noticeable with music than voices, though.

Sounds like either way, I'll have to get off my duff and send the thing in. I had been hoping for a do-it-yourself fix so that I could have it ready by next weekend when some friends come up for a movie weekend. Oh well....

Thanks for all the help, guys!

From Sony's hype at that link, looks like one of their "special" drivers may be on the fritz. Since you notice it on Gabin's voice, probably a midrange or mid/woofer combo (assuming the sub cuts in at about 100Hz). I'm as much as DIY guy as anyone and hate to send back something I can fix myself (you should see my garage), but my experience with these kinds of systems is that the parts can only be sourced from manufacturer (which means they may not sell them individually to consumers and if they do they'll charge whatever they feel that they can get) and customer service isn't much help beyond, "You say it's not making any sound? Have you checked to see if it's plugged in?".

The system is only 6 months old so Sony should stand behind it. If you purchased it locally, the dealer should handle it for you. If you bought it over the Internet, check Sony's website to see if there's a service center in your city or a contracted repair service. Could save you the hassle of having to take it to the UPS depot.

One way of troubleshooting to see if it's the speaker or something in the amplifier that's causing the problem is to switch the speaker cables so that the cable now going to the left speaker goes to the right and vice versa. If the static remains in the left speaker, you know that speaker's the problem.

I've been traveling a lot lately and was thinking of purchasing a Slingbox. Are they worth it? Any recommendation on which model I should purchase?

After reading this thread it seemed clear to me that the Panasonic Viera is the way to go. I don't have the budget, nor the space to go for more than 50' and the ST50 Amazon has for 950 looks to be a perfect fit. Question perhaps some of you can help me with is about the warranty. Who do you do/recommend? My experience at least with cellphones are that these warranties/insurance you pay for are a scam. I took a look at this Squaretrade thing Amazon offers and it doesn't look kosher. I'm thinking I'm covered by the manufacturer the first year and if the tv gets thru that first year without any problems I should be alright for a few years and would be ready to get a new one if/when it goes. Sound reasoning on my part or is there a better idea?

Black Hat wrote:After reading this thread it seemed clear to me that the Panasonic Viera is the way to go. I don't have the budget, nor the space to go for more than 50' and the ST50 Amazon has for 950 looks to be a perfect fit. Question perhaps some of you can help me with is about the warranty. Who do you do/recommend? My experience at least with cellphones are that these warranties/insurance you pay for are a scam. I took a look at this Squaretrade thing Amazon offers and it doesn't look kosher. I'm thinking I'm covered by the manufacturer the first year and if the tv gets thru that first year without any problems I should be alright for a few years and would be ready to get a new one if/when it goes. Sound reasoning on my part or is there a better idea?

Warranties are almost always a bad idea. Check out the last bullet on this list, and check some of their links for more info:

http://gizmodo.com/5984238/10-worst-tec ... avoid-them" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It depends on the individual company - I buy a lot of my AV gear from Richer Sounds, whose five-year guarantees are both pretty cheap and demonstrably effective, as they fixed my amplifier for nothing (extra) when it was at least four years old.

I always figured a warranty is just another way of gambling- sure, it could pay off in the end, but it has to be a zero sum game- if the company is making money on average, then the customer is losing it. (Stores keep 50% of what they charge, according to this link: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/exte ... -guide.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

I'd agree that with some companies, it's a good idea (Dell in-home repair warranties on laptops back when they were a better company definitely saved me a ton of money) but that's only because my laptop saw a lot of movement. I doubt you'll be lugging a TV around with you when you go places.

Product failures tend to follow whats called the bathtub curve, so called because the chance of failure is highest at the beginning and end of the projected life of a product. Manufacturing defects make it more likely that a product will fail while it's broken in, but you are covered by the manufacturers warranty for this time period. Later on, when the product gets pretty old, it's also more prone to failure, but by that point all warranties will have expired. The time when they are most reliable is the in between period, called the useful life period. This is essentially what an extended warranty covers. In other words, you are only getting extra coverage for the years when your product is least likely to break.

Warranties aren't so much gambling as future expense suppression. If you're concerned that if your TV breaks down in a year, you won't be in a financial position to invest in another one, the warranty may be worth it. Whereas if you generally have enough money on hand to handle that sort of fortuitous expense, then it's probably wise to go without the warranty.

dx23 wrote:I've been traveling a lot lately and was thinking of purchasing a Slingbox. Are they worth it? Any recommendation on which model I should purchase?

I've had a Slingbox for a handful of years.
So I have an old basic model and can't help with that issue.

But a few things you might want to consider:

- Do you travel to places with good high speed internet?
2 or 3 years ago the broadband here was fast and the Slingbox picture was good.
Now the internet in my megalopolis is pokey slow and the picture is often blurry and sometimes freezes and such. This matters less if you are watching fairly static things like talking heads, but much more so if you want to watch sports or movies.
(Shanghai has the slowest broadband in China, slightly worse than Tibet...)

- Consider the time difference(s).
In China, for instance, it's a 12 hour difference to the East Coast of the US (AM is PM), so if you're going to be tuning in in the evening in China you'll get morning programs. So are there going to be things you want to watch at the times you'll have available?

- Do you have someone back home who can reset the Slingbox or router if it goes out?
Resetting the router just requires pushing a button. But if the Slingbox settings get lost, you'll need someone with a little computer savvy, or have to just deal with it when you return.
Slingbox itself takes up a relatively small amount of memory and doesn't cause any problems, and is easy to use. But the settings go wonky every now and then and need resetting.

Overall, I like the Slingbox and use it a decent amount.
But it was much better when my broadband was actually good/reliable.
And it would be better if the time zone I lived in didn't conflict so much with where my Slingbox is. Lastly, these days you can watch a good deal of sports, and old Tv shows (via Hulu and such) and things like The Daily Show streaming over these here interwebs.

So, it depends what you want to watch, the times involved, and internet speed.
It's a bit frustrating with my current poor internet, and I probably wouldn't buy it today for such a mediocre and unreliable picture. But when my internet was good and when I first got it, it was pretty sweet. It's also a one-time investment -- I think my old Sling Solo cost only a little over $100 six years or so ago.

Hope that helps ...

When my brother worked at an electronics store they were told to push the warranties, which were considered for suckers. In private, the salesmen all insisted it was a bad deal and you should never opt for it. I think jindiana explains it pretty well above.

Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and ordered the ST50 sans warranty, should be alright.

I've discovered recently that my Panasonic BDT110 has some sort of built in overscan that I cannot turn off. I was zooming an open matte 4:3 DVD yesterday to create a faux 1.85 presentation (the correct OAR) and I discovered that all 4:3 DVDs are losing picture on the sides until I zoom them. See:

http://i.imgur.com/GVRYIcD.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i.imgur.com/NPSQfqF.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Overscan is off on my TV. Those are the exact same frames, yet when I am not zooming, the image is being cropped on the sides. If you measure the first image, the AR is about 1:29:1, when obviously it should be 1.33:1. I figure the BD player does this because it expects your TV to be overscanning as well. Since TV Overscan only affects the top and bottom of a 4:3 image, it will make a 1:29:1 image into 1.33:1. But that way I'm losing information on all 4 sides. I would much rather turn this feature off and be able to see the 1.33:1 image that is actually on the disc, but I cannot find any options relating to it in the set up menu or manual. My Panasonic BD65 does the same thing too.

Is there any way to turn it off, or perhaps a known brand of players that does not do this? Can anyone check to see if they experience the same thing? This only works with player zoom function, not TV zoom.

What is the TV shape set to in the player settings?

I'll need to investigate this. I have some idea of what could be going on.

16:9. The only other options are 4:3 Pan&Scan, 4:3 Letterbox and 16:9 Full.

All three of those choices result in the player automatically cropping or stretching the image to 16:9. Only the current setting displays the DVD in it's (slightly overscanned) native 4:3 AR

It's not the upscaling either. When I switch the player resolution from 1080p to 480p, the image again is automatically cropped or stretched to 16:9. The only way to get it into 4:3 is to use the TV aspect ratio button, and squash the image back. But the same amount of cropping is still evident.

Lemmy Caution wrote:

dx23 wrote:I've been traveling a lot lately and was thinking of purchasing a Slingbox. Are they worth it? Any recommendation on which model I should purchase?

I've had a Slingbox for a handful of years.
So I have an old basic model and can't help with that issue.

But a few things you might want to consider:

- Do you travel to places with good high speed internet?
2 or 3 years ago the broadband here was fast and the Slingbox picture was good.
Now the internet in my megalopolis is pokey slow and the picture is often blurry and sometimes freezes and such. This matters less if you are watching fairly static things like talking heads, but much more so if you want to watch sports or movies.
(Shanghai has the slowest broadband in China, slightly worse than Tibet...)

- Consider the time difference(s).
In China, for instance, it's a 12 hour difference to the East Coast of the US (AM is PM), so if you're going to be tuning in in the evening in China you'll get morning programs. So are there going to be things you want to watch at the times you'll have available?

- Do you have someone back home who can reset the Slingbox or router if it goes out?
Resetting the router just requires pushing a button. But if the Slingbox settings get lost, you'll need someone with a little computer savvy, or have to just deal with it when you return.
Slingbox itself takes up a relatively small amount of memory and doesn't cause any problems, and is easy to use. But the settings go wonky every now and then and need resetting.

Overall, I like the Slingbox and use it a decent amount.
But it was much better when my broadband was actually good/reliable.
And it would be better if the time zone I lived in didn't conflict so much with where my Slingbox is. Lastly, these days you can watch a good deal of sports, and old Tv shows (via Hulu and such) and things like The Daily Show streaming over these here interwebs.

So, it depends what you want to watch, the times involved, and internet speed.
It's a bit frustrating with my current poor internet, and I probably wouldn't buy it today for such a mediocre and unreliable picture. But when my internet was good and when I first got it, it was pretty sweet. It's also a one-time investment -- I think my old Sling Solo cost only a little over $100 six years or so ago.

Hope that helps ...

Thank you for your help!! The places I'm visiting don't truly have great internet connection so I think that puts the plans of getting a Slingbox on hold.

I wonder if anyone had this issue with the three MGM Hitchcock BR's (Rebecca, Spellbound, Notorious) and would appreciate any idea that would help to resolve it: Whenever I watch the feature (on my Sherwood BDP-5004) it works fine, but the supplements are minimized to a small square at the upper left corner of the screen. This has never happened with any other DVD or BR I watched before on this player.

I've expreienced the same with the Dollar trilogy (also MGM). It's not a faulty disc, but rather an issue with the player/firmware, IIRC. The BD player I used was a cheap, no-brand player. I haven't tried the discs on my new Panasonic, but I imagine it would play just fine. Don't know how to resolve it though. I would imagine a firmware update migh do to the trick, but I never had the opportunity to try that out with my old player.

Ok, this is an embarassingly basic question, but after reading a few articles about it that just went over my head, I'm still not getting it.

Can somebody explain (or point me to a good explanation) of what anamorphic does, why it exists, and why there's some fuss over old criterion DVDs being anamorphic or non-anamorphic (I can't remember which). I know it has something to do with stretching and compressing the image, but I don't get why anybody would need to do that.

Thanks!

Without getting at all technical, non-anamorphic DVDs of widescreen films will fill up the sides of a 4:3 TV, but on a widescreen TV, there will be thick black bars all around the whole image. In other words, non-anamorphic DVDs were made assuming that they would only ever be watched on 4:3 TVs, which has proven not to be the case.

But the most crucial difference is that anamorphic transfers have more picture information. (Something like a third as much again, if I remember rightly.)

To get slightly technical, what they did was squeeze the widescreen image into a 4x3 format. It's exactly the same concept as anamorphic film projection. The purpose of this is to use the entrity of the SD resolution (natively 4x3, just like HD is natively 16x9). The player would then unsqueeze it to fit your screen. So if your television supports it, you are getting a higher quality picture (more pixels).

In a way the same issue crops up on academy ratio films on HD formats. You are losing the resolution on the sides to pillarboxed black space.

I don't suppose anyone has any more ideas about my previous post? Or if anyone has been able to replicate it on their set up? I'm thinking of getting a new BD player soon anyway, but would really like to have one that does not insist on this nonsense:

EddieLarkin wrote:I've discovered recently that my Panasonic BDT110 has some sort of built in overscan that I cannot turn off. I was zooming an open matte 4:3 DVD yesterday to create a faux 1.85 presentation (the correct OAR) and I discovered that all 4:3 DVDs are losing picture on the sides until I zoom them. See:

http://i.imgur.com/GVRYIcD.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i.imgur.com/NPSQfqF.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Overscan is off on my TV. Those are the exact same frames, yet when I am not zooming, the image is being cropped on the sides. If you measure the first image, the AR is about 1:29:1, when obviously it should be 1.33:1. I figure the BD player does this because it expects your TV to be overscanning as well. Since TV Overscan only affects the top and bottom of a 4:3 image, it will make a 1:29:1 image into 1.33:1. But that way I'm losing information on all 4 sides. I would much rather turn this feature off and be able to see the 1.33:1 image that is actually on the disc, but I cannot find any options relating to it in the set up menu or manual. My Panasonic BD65 does the same thing too.

Is there any way to turn it off, or perhaps a known brand of players that does not do this? Can anyone check to see if they experience the same thing? This only works with player zoom function, not TV zoom.

Are you sending 1080p from the player to the TV?